A new e-bike is not a finished product. It is a kit of parts that need to settle. Bolts loosen, spokes stretch, brakes rub. The first 100 km are a settling-in period. This guide tells you what to check, in order, so nothing catches you out.
Before the First Ride
Start with the basics. Check the tyre pressure. It is on the sidewall. Check the battery is charged and locked in. Check the display works. Check the lights, if you have them. Check the bell. Check the quick releases on the wheels. They should be tight.
Then check the brakes. Squeeze the levers. They should feel firm. Spin the wheels. They should spin freely. If they rub, the disc is not centred. Loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake, and re-tighten. That centres the caliper.
After the First Ride
The first ride settles the components. Bolts can loosen as things bed in. Go over the bike with a hex key. Check the stem, the handlebars, the seatpost, the saddle, the cranks, the pedals, the rack, and the fenders. Tighten anything that has moved.
Check the wheels for true. Spin each wheel and watch the rim. A small wobble is normal. A big wobble is not. If you see a wobble, the spokes need attention. Take it to a shop. Spoke tension is not a home job.
Check the drivetrain. Shift through the gears. Listen for clicks. If the chain skips, the derailleur needs adjusting. The barrel adjuster on the shifter can fine-tune it. Turn it a quarter turn at a time.
The First Week: Bolts and Fasteners
After a few rides, check every bolt you can see. Use the correct hex size. Work systematically from the front to the back. The handlebars, the stem faceplate, the headset, the brake levers, the shifters, the motor mounts, if you can see them, the battery rack, the seatpost clamp, the rear rack, the kickstand.
Pay attention to the torque. The manual gives a number. If you do not have the manual, a firm hand is not enough. A torque wrench is the only way to be sure. A beam type is accurate enough for bike bolts.
Check the folding mechanism if you have a folding bike. The hinge and the latch. A loose hinge is a safety issue. Tighten it to the spec in the manual. If it still moves, take it to a shop.
| Check | Why | How often |
|---|---|---|
| Bolts | Settle and loosen | After first ride, then weekly |
| Spokes | Bed in and go out of true | After first week, then monthly |
| Brakes | Pads bed in, cables stretch | After first ride, then weekly |
| Tyres | Pressure drops | Before every ride |
| Chain | Stretches and needs lube | Weekly or after wet rides |
The First 100 km: Brakes and Cables
Brakes are the most important safety item. Check them before every ride. Squeeze the levers. They should feel firm. If they feel spongy, there is air in the line or the pads are worn. On a new bike, it is likely air. Bleed the brakes or take it to a shop.
Check the brake pads for wear. Look through the caliper. If the pad is thin, replace it. On a new bike, the pads should be fine, but they bed in and the gap changes. Adjust the pad position if needed.
Cables stretch. Check the gear cables. If shifting is slow, tighten the barrel adjuster. Check the brake cables. If the lever pulls to the bar, tighten the cable at the caliper. Do not overtighten. The wheel should still spin free.
The First 100 km: Wheels and Tyres
Spokes bed in. This is normal. The wheel can go out of true. Spin the wheel and watch the rim. If it wobbles side to side, the spokes need tensioning. This is a shop job. Do not try to fix it yourself unless you have a truing stand.
Check the tyre pressure regularly. A soft tyre rolls badly and can pinch flat. The correct pressure is on the sidewall. Use a pump with a gauge. Check the tread for cuts or embedded glass.
Check the wheel axles. They should be tight. If you have quick releases, they should be closed with enough force to leave a mark on your palm. If you have thru-axles, they should be snug, not loose.
The First 100 km: Battery and Charging
Check the battery mount. It should click in firmly. It should not rattle. If it moves, tighten the mount or the battery lock. Check the contacts for dirt. Clean them with a dry cloth.
Charge the battery fully before the first long ride. The charger should stop when full. If it does not, there is a problem. Do not leave the battery charging unattended overnight.
Battery range depends on how you ride. Our formula uses assist levels. Eco uses 7 Wh per km. Tour uses 11 Wh per km. Sport uses 15 Wh per km. Turbo uses 20 Wh per km. The terrain, tyres, temperature, and your pace all change the number. Use the range calculator to see the range band for your battery.
The First 100 km: Motor and Drivetrain
Listen to the motor. It should be quiet. If it makes a grinding or clicking noise, stop riding. Check the motor mounts. They should be tight. If you have a mid-drive motor, check the crank arms. They should not wobble.
Check the chain for wear. A new chain can stretch. Use a chain checker. If it is worn, replace it. A worn chain wears the cassette and chainring. That is an expensive repair.
Lubricate the chain. Use a bike-specific lube. Wipe off the excess. A dry chain wears faster. A wet chain attracts dirt. Find a balance.
The First 100 km: What to Carry
Carry a basic toolkit. A multi-tool with hex keys, a tyre lever, a spare tube, a pump or CO2 inflator, and a patch kit. You can fix a flat on the road. You cannot fix a broken spoke on the road.
Carry a phone and a charger. If your battery dies, you can call for help. Carry water and a snack. An e-bike ride is still a ride.
Know your range. Use the range calculator to find the estimated range for your battery. The median battery is 720 Wh. The median estimated range is 47 km. That is a starting point. Your range depends on your conditions.
The First 100 km: What to Ignore
Do not worry about the claimed range. It is often optimistic. The median overclaim in our catalogue is 50 percent. The widest overclaim is 84 percent. Use the estimated range instead.
Do not worry about the battery degrading. A median battery lasts 800 full cycles. That is 38400 km. You will replace the bike before the battery, likely.
Do not worry about the cost of electricity. Charging a median battery once costs 0.20 EUR at 0.28 EUR per kWh. Riding 100 km costs 0.42 EUR in electricity. That is less than a cup of coffee.
When to Take It to a Shop
Some things are not home jobs. Spoke tension needs a truing stand. Hydraulic brake bleeds need special tools. Motor repairs need a qualified technician. If you are not sure, take it to a shop.
If the bike makes a noise that worries you, stop riding. A loose bolt can be fixed. A broken frame cannot. If the frame cracks, do not ride it.
Check the warranty. Some warranties require a professional assembly. Keep the receipt. Register the bike with the manufacturer if you can.
The First 100 km: A Checklist
- Before the first ride: check tyres, brakes, battery, and quick releases.
- After the first ride: check bolts, spokes, and gears.
- After the first week: check all bolts with a torque wrench.
- Check brakes and cables before every ride.
- Check tyre pressure before every ride.
- Check the battery mount and charge the battery fully.
- Listen to the motor and check the chain.
- Carry a toolkit and know your range.
- Take it to a shop for anything you cannot fix.
The first 100 km are about catching problems early. A loose bolt is a five-minute fix. A broken spoke is a shop visit. A brake failure is an accident. Do not skip the checks.
After the first 100 km, the bike should be settled. You will know its quirks. You will know its real range. You will know what needs attention. Ride safe.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I check the bolts on my new e-bike?
Check the main bolts after the first ride, then again after the first week. Bolts can settle as components bed in. Use the torque settings from the manual if you have them. If you do not have a torque wrench, a careful hand is better than over-tightening.
Do spokes really need re-tensioning on a new e-bike?
Yes. New wheels can go out of true as spokes bed in. Check for wobbles by spinning the wheel and looking at the rim. If you see a wobble, take it to a shop. Spoke tension is not a home job without a truing stand.
How do I know if my brakes need aligning?
Squeeze the levers. They should feel firm, not spongy. Spin the wheels and listen for rubbing. If the wheel stops quickly when you brake hard, the brakes are working. If not, adjust the calipers or pads. Disc brakes may need a bed-in period.
What is the most important thing to check on a folding e-bike?
The folding mechanism. Check the latch and hinge for play. A loose hinge is dangerous. Also check the lock that holds the frame together. If it wiggles, tighten it or take it to a shop.
Should I worry about the battery on a new e-bike?
Check the battery mount. Make sure it clicks in firmly and does not rattle. Check the contacts for dirt. Charge it fully before the first long ride. Battery range estimates are often optimistic, so plan with the estimated range from the calculator.
